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by | Jan 26, 2026

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3 Things I can start doing NOW to HELP my reactive dog.

Start today, not someday

3 things you can start doing now to help your reactive dog

Small changes that lower stress, build safety and stop reactivity getting worse. If you feel stressed before your dog has even started moving, that’s your cue: something needs to change today.

The 60-second version
  1. 1Reactivity isn’t bad behaviour, it’s an overloaded nervous system
  2. 2Engagement is currency: pay calm, not frantic
  3. 3Practise going up and coming back down, 3 minutes a day
  4. 4Before you ask for anything: set up to succeed, know the skill, follow through
  5. 5Pressure must be clear, fair and released
  6. 6What your dog practises all day is what they get good at
Choose connection over conflict

Reactivity starts before the lead goes on

Dogs were never designed for what we ask of them on a normal walk:

Tight urban pavements
Constant noise
Unfamiliar dogs
Unpredictable humans
Constant lead pressure
Reactivity isn’t bad behaviour. It’s emotional overload in a nervous system that doesn’t yet have the skills to come back down.
Honest warning: this isn’t a quick fix. It’s a starting point, with a plan. Helping a reactive dog takes daily structure and intentional practice, and it starts with you, today.
The 3 things

Start here

1

Practise arousal management

Every experience pushes your dog up into excitement and stress, or lets them come back down into calm. What gets practised gets more reliable, for the things we like and the things we don’t.

Engagement is currency. What you give your engagement to, you’re paying for.
£££
Paying for

Frantic, jumping, pulling

£££
Start paying for

Calm, settled, brain online

Your job: create predictable moments where your dog practises going low → high and high → back down. That teaches the nervous system flexibility.

Tug & release on cuePlay & freezeWait & retrieveWalk, then settle
⏱ 3 minutes a day
Ask yourself honestly: if you clip the lead onto a dog who is already running, jumping and barking, what state of mind are they taking outside? Pay calm. Pay settled. And show them high arousal is allowed and rewarded too, in play you start.
2

Build realistic, reliable boundaries

What happens when you ask your dog for something and they ignore you? If nothing changes, they’ve just learned ignoring you is an option. Boundaries aren’t about being harsh. They’re about clarity, follow-through and fairness.

Before you ask for anything, check:

1. Are you setting them up to succeed?Is the environment too hard? Is arousal already too high? Can they realistically do this right now?
2. Do they actually know this skill?Taught calmly, somewhere quiet, and repeated enough to feel familiar?
3. Are you willing to follow through?If you ask, will you hold it?
Answer all three before you ask your dog for anything.

Understanding pressure

Pressure is information, not punishment. It should always be clear, fair and able to switch off.

Pressure on: gentle, intentional guidance with the lead or by stepping into space. Never constant.

Pressure without release

Creates conflict

Pressure with clear release

Creates learning

When listening leads to comfort, clarity and release, boundaries stop feeling threatening and start feeling safe.
3

Practise what you want repeated

Dogs repeat what works. Training doesn’t stop outside of sessions: every part of their day is teaching them something.

If their day is mostly…

  • Pulling
  • Reacting
  • Ignoring you
  • Coping alone

…those are the skills they’ll get better at.

Use 3 minutes a day to show them

  • Engagement with you matters
  • Calm choices get noticed
  • Slowing down is safe
  • Distance is always an option

Keep showing them that you’ll create distance when it’s too much, you’ll help instead of push, and you’re more rewarding than an outburst. Then watch this happen:

Reactions reduce
Recovery speeds up
Close passes become possible
Trust deepens
Make it slow.Make it easy.Make it rewarding.

This is how you build a dog who doesn’t just behave, but feels safe enough to think. It’s not your fault your dog is struggling, but it is within your control to change the pattern. You don’t need to do more. You need to do things differently, on purpose.

Test yourself

Quick check

1. Your dog is spinning and barking at the front door. You want to go for a walk. What do you do?

Thing one: whatever state they leave the house in is the state you’ve paid for. Pay calm.

2. You ask for a sit at the park. Your dog ignores you. They only learnt sit in the kitchen last week. What’s going on?

Thing two, question 2. It isn’t disobedience, it’s a lack of understanding. Go back to somewhere easier.
Want personalised support?

Stop guessing

Every reactive dog needs a clear, achievable plan: realistic goals, the right amount of pressure, and progress you can actually repeat.

Communication Intervention Virtual Call

One-to-one, focused on your dog, your environment and what needs to change first. Can save months of guessing.

Book a virtual call →
Reactivity classes

A structured, supportive space to practise regulation, distance and engagement safely, with no pressure to “be social”.

See classes →

Both help you move from surviving walks to a calmer, more connected relationship.

Next read: 6 daily habits that calm a reactive dog Read →
ABOUT THE AUTHORAnyango is the founder of DroopyChaos Dog Training in Harlow, Essex, and a dog and handler emotional coach. Her work with reactive dogs started at home with her previous dog Aza, and it’s why she now works with reactive, anxious, frustrated and misunderstood dogs and their people across Essex, Hertfordshire and North London, with her Neapolitan Mastiff Mwaki as her calm training partner. Relationship first. No quick fixes, no judgement. Find out more about DroopyChaos →